July 24, 2013.

Why Retailers Don't Know Who Sews Their Clothing

Winston had never been able to feel sure----even after this morning's flash of the eyes it was still impossible to be sure----whether O'Brien was a friend or an enemy. Nor did it even seem to matter greatly. There was a link of understanding between them more important than affection or partisanship. "We shall meet in the place where there is no darkness," he had said. Winston did not know what it meant, only that in some way or another it would come true.

DHAKA, Bangladesh----On two floors of an olive green building with insufficient emergency exits and a too narrow fire escape, women in Saifur Rahman's factory sew fleece sweatshirts for European shoppers.

The voice from the telescreen paused. A trumpet call, clear and beautiful, floated into the stagnant air. The voice continued raspingly:

Yet the global brands whose clothes he makes don't always know about him, Mr. Rahman says. Often, he says, they believe their clothes were made at bigger factories----ones they have vetted for safety----located miles away.

"Attention! Your attention, please! A newsflash has this moment arrived from the Malabar front. Our forces in South India have won a glorious victory. I am authorized to say that the action we are now reporting may well bring the war within measurable distance of its end. Here is the newsflash----"

Mr. Rahman gets the work because sometimes the original factories decide to subcontract it out. Maybe they have taken on too many orders, or fear missing a deadline.